Monthly Archives: August 2014

World War 1

There is much press in Europe about the 100th anniversary of the start of World War One. In the American press and media, barely a mention. I wonder why this should be. Names like Ypres, The Somme and Verdun are part of the British psyche. Lines of poetry such as:

“Stands the church clock at ten to three?

And is there honey still for tea?”

Or

“There’s some corner of a foreign field that is forever England”

are well known and much loved and quoted.

In America, not so much.

Two weeks ago I found myself in London with my Niece, Sophie, and we visited the Tower of London where there is being created a vast Memorial to those who died in that War. Over 800,000 ceramic poppies are being arranged in the moat, a huge undertaking by over 5,000 volunteers. We both found the scene quite moving.

Leading up to……..

Here I am in the Dardanelles, previously known as the Hellespont (!), which as every English person knows is the sight of one of WW1’s major engagements, Gallipoli. Previously I had thought that the word Dardanelles referred to an area, of land. But no, it is actually a Strait connecting the Aegean Sea with the Sea of Marmara. (no more geography, I promise).

Getting here was comparatively easy, up at 5.30am, the tour bus picked me up at 6.30 and off I went with a busload of Aussies and Kiwis who both share some splendid epithets for Brits and Americans, so I kept my mouth shut. Five hours later we arrived at Eceabat, on the banks of the Dardanelles. A quick lunch then we were of on a tour of the ANZAC landing grounds of Gallipoli.

Four hours later we returned to the lunch spot severely chastened, heart broken, dazed, tired and emotional. Hundreds of thousands of lives were lost during the campaign and it achieved what again? As far as I could determine, nothing. We visited ANZAC Cove where some of the troops were landed at night, in the wrong place. We saw the Nek, where a naval bombardment was mistimed, allowing enemy forces to regroup and repel the attack. They were all so young, as an Aussie friend back home remarked “They were just babies”. There were fourteen year olds amongst the Allied forces.

Enough from me for now, lets see what tomorrow brings.

Oh, I am off for tea because, yes, there is still honey.

Sophie and the poppies at the Tower of London.

Sophie and the poppies at the Tower of London.

One of the many Memorials.

One of the many Memorials.

Lone Pine War Cemetery.

Lone Pine War Cemetery.

On the highest hill in the area.

On the highest hill in the area.

Anzac Cove Cemetery.

Anzac Cove Cemetery.

  

I broke the hotel phone system and other news.

It seems I crashed the phone system. For the whole hotel! How? No one knows.

The reception staff had noticed periodic outages over the last few days and just put it down to the vagaries of the local phone system. Today however the system went down at around noon (when I went out) and didn’t come back up. They brought in the experts who isolated the problem to my room where I was charging my tiny laptop. They unplugged the charger and lo and behold, their phone system came back. They were very nice about it, almost apologized, as did I. There is now a sign in reception warning against charging laptops in the same power strip as the telephone! Oh dear.

In other news. ……

I have been on two tours, on buses. Corny? yes. Touristy? yes. Informative? Very.

The first one was around the Golden Horn, an enormous inlet that splits the City and is alive with boat traffic. My main interest was the history of said Horn as in days gone by there was a huge chain across the mouth to protect the harbor from invaders. Many is the book I have read about this and ultimately of course it failed and the city fell. The Crusaders succeeded (1204), then the Ottomans (1453). History vividly brought alive. Remains of the ancient walls remain, tantalizingly, and are being restored in places. Just to see those remains and think, “what have those stones seen”?

There was a cable car ride up a cliff to a coffee house high on a cliff. Not only do I not drink coffee but also suffer from vertigo, got to move outside my comfort zone, and they did serve tea. The Egyptian Spice Market was sensational. A visual and olfactory feast. Endless stalls and booths selling I not what, but it sure was stimulating.

Another bus took me up to Northern extremity of the Bosphorus where it meets the Black Sea. Lots of points for me, a geography nerd. Fascinating to see the shipping passing through the narrow straights, huge container ships feeding all those ports around the Black Sea, Burgas (Bulgaria), Constanta (Romania),Odessa (Ukraine), Sevastapol (Crimea), Rostov (Russia), and all the ports on Turkey’s North Coast. All those ships, mere yards away, carrying trade goods from all over the World. I wonder how much Turkey makes from it all in taxes?

One more moment I lost to dreaming. On Saturday night I was finishing dinner when the waitpersons started lowering the sliding roof and putting up the plastic walls around the eating area, ominous thinks I. “Will it rain”? I asked, “Yes, go now”! I did. Back to the hotel and up onto the roof, bad mistake. Sheets of rain blowing in from the Sea of Marmara, I left roof . Found another soulmate on a protected balcony and we shared a wine or two as the lightening flashed all around, thunder peeled and echoed around the City. Intense rain crashed down on our tiny roof, flooding the streets below, yes I did get a bit damp, but then, it all got impossibly better. The Mosques burst into the Call to Prayer. In a lightening Storm. In August. In Istanbul. It was just momentous.

A stall in the Spice market.

A stall in the Spice market.

More Spice Market scenes.

More Spice Market scenes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They have trolley cars here, just like San Francisco.

They have trolley cars here, just like San Francisco.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The bridge between Europe and Asia over the Bosphorus.

The bridge between Europe and Asia over the Bosphorus.

The old and the new.

The old and the new.

Days in Istanbul

Day three in Istanbul draws to a close and I have to tell you, the good people of this City seem to have a really great time. Between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque there is a vast park, open space, or plaza with benches set around, fountains, green bits, children’s play areas, contoured paths, ancient looking piles, presumably part of the old walls of Byzantium and its always packed. There are food booths all around selling barbequed corn, Nutella wraps, ice cream and everyone just mills about very good naturedly. I don’t detect that groundswell of suspicion that lurks in the background of other major cities (London?), the throngs just seem to get on with each other, take selfies, eat, laugh, chat, drink tea and have the greatest time. I have been asked for directions, asked to take photos, offered tea, beamed at, all by local people. Anyone looking less like a resident than me I cannot imagine!

Today I went to the Grand Bazaar, it was hot, very hot, and very, very big, and it has hills. It is all enclosed to keep the weather out when wet, the curved passages are right out of Aladdin’s cave, endless booths, stalls and shops selling everything you can imagine. Not being a great shopper I didn’t buy anything but contemplated shipping a few small items back home, spices etc. I didn’t aquire a guide, just used my little compass and didn’t get too lost. Again there were huge crowds, walk on the right, walk on the right, it was like the London tube at rush hour without the tutting if someone stopped, we just moved around them!

Tomorrow I am determined to work out the public transportation system.

 

IMG_6091

In Aladdin's Cave.

In Aladdin’s Cave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update:

I cannot get to Dushanbe in Tajikistan from here which is bad, sad news as I was delighted to get my visa in London. The planes, two per week are full unless I want to go via Kabul or Moscow or other long detours, and pay hugely. So have applied for a visa to Uzbekistan. I went to the Embassy yesterday, long trip, long story, and my application was accepted and “should” be available next Friday. There are many flights from here to Tashkent so all being well I will be on my way in a week.