Tag Archives: Istanbul

I broke the hotel phone system and other news.

It seems I crashed the phone system. For the whole hotel! How? No one knows.

The reception staff had noticed periodic outages over the last few days and just put it down to the vagaries of the local phone system. Today however the system went down at around noon (when I went out) and didn’t come back up. They brought in the experts who isolated the problem to my room where I was charging my tiny laptop. They unplugged the charger and lo and behold, their phone system came back. They were very nice about it, almost apologized, as did I. There is now a sign in reception warning against charging laptops in the same power strip as the telephone! Oh dear.

In other news. ……

I have been on two tours, on buses. Corny? yes. Touristy? yes. Informative? Very.

The first one was around the Golden Horn, an enormous inlet that splits the City and is alive with boat traffic. My main interest was the history of said Horn as in days gone by there was a huge chain across the mouth to protect the harbor from invaders. Many is the book I have read about this and ultimately of course it failed and the city fell. The Crusaders succeeded (1204), then the Ottomans (1453). History vividly brought alive. Remains of the ancient walls remain, tantalizingly, and are being restored in places. Just to see those remains and think, “what have those stones seen”?

There was a cable car ride up a cliff to a coffee house high on a cliff. Not only do I not drink coffee but also suffer from vertigo, got to move outside my comfort zone, and they did serve tea. The Egyptian Spice Market was sensational. A visual and olfactory feast. Endless stalls and booths selling I not what, but it sure was stimulating.

Another bus took me up to Northern extremity of the Bosphorus where it meets the Black Sea. Lots of points for me, a geography nerd. Fascinating to see the shipping passing through the narrow straights, huge container ships feeding all those ports around the Black Sea, Burgas (Bulgaria), Constanta (Romania),Odessa (Ukraine), Sevastapol (Crimea), Rostov (Russia), and all the ports on Turkey’s North Coast. All those ships, mere yards away, carrying trade goods from all over the World. I wonder how much Turkey makes from it all in taxes?

One more moment I lost to dreaming. On Saturday night I was finishing dinner when the waitpersons started lowering the sliding roof and putting up the plastic walls around the eating area, ominous thinks I. “Will it rain”? I asked, “Yes, go now”! I did. Back to the hotel and up onto the roof, bad mistake. Sheets of rain blowing in from the Sea of Marmara, I left roof . Found another soulmate on a protected balcony and we shared a wine or two as the lightening flashed all around, thunder peeled and echoed around the City. Intense rain crashed down on our tiny roof, flooding the streets below, yes I did get a bit damp, but then, it all got impossibly better. The Mosques burst into the Call to Prayer. In a lightening Storm. In August. In Istanbul. It was just momentous.

A stall in the Spice market.

A stall in the Spice market.

More Spice Market scenes.

More Spice Market scenes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They have trolley cars here, just like San Francisco.

They have trolley cars here, just like San Francisco.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The bridge between Europe and Asia over the Bosphorus.

The bridge between Europe and Asia over the Bosphorus.

The old and the new.

The old and the new.

Days in Istanbul

Day three in Istanbul draws to a close and I have to tell you, the good people of this City seem to have a really great time. Between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque there is a vast park, open space, or plaza with benches set around, fountains, green bits, children’s play areas, contoured paths, ancient looking piles, presumably part of the old walls of Byzantium and its always packed. There are food booths all around selling barbequed corn, Nutella wraps, ice cream and everyone just mills about very good naturedly. I don’t detect that groundswell of suspicion that lurks in the background of other major cities (London?), the throngs just seem to get on with each other, take selfies, eat, laugh, chat, drink tea and have the greatest time. I have been asked for directions, asked to take photos, offered tea, beamed at, all by local people. Anyone looking less like a resident than me I cannot imagine!

Today I went to the Grand Bazaar, it was hot, very hot, and very, very big, and it has hills. It is all enclosed to keep the weather out when wet, the curved passages are right out of Aladdin’s cave, endless booths, stalls and shops selling everything you can imagine. Not being a great shopper I didn’t buy anything but contemplated shipping a few small items back home, spices etc. I didn’t aquire a guide, just used my little compass and didn’t get too lost. Again there were huge crowds, walk on the right, walk on the right, it was like the London tube at rush hour without the tutting if someone stopped, we just moved around them!

Tomorrow I am determined to work out the public transportation system.

 

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In Aladdin's Cave.

In Aladdin’s Cave.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update:

I cannot get to Dushanbe in Tajikistan from here which is bad, sad news as I was delighted to get my visa in London. The planes, two per week are full unless I want to go via Kabul or Moscow or other long detours, and pay hugely. So have applied for a visa to Uzbekistan. I went to the Embassy yesterday, long trip, long story, and my application was accepted and “should” be available next Friday. There are many flights from here to Tashkent so all being well I will be on my way in a week.

Almost a disaster in Istanbul.

Day one in Istanbul and I thought I would do it all right, by the book as it were. Woken up at dawn by the first Call to Prayer of the day. My little hostel is between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque and with the muezzins chanting from both I as well and truly awake. Thinking creatively I got up thinking, the light, the light. Went up onto the roof and watched the sun come up over the other side of the narrow sea that runs through Istanbul, the Bosphorus, Asia. Truly spectacular and yes, the light was perfect.

The Blue Mosque at sunrise.

The Blue Mosque at sunrise.

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Back to my room and tried to sleep again, no such luck, so did the usual morning stuff except that all my shave jell had leaked, fortunately into the Heathrow security bag. Messy.

Still early I went down to Pub Street for breakfast, yoghurt and honey with an omelet. Then off to explore the mosques. Walked about and admired the architecture then began to feel weird. Headed back to hotel and decided I had sunstroke.

I didn’t do everything right, almost a total fail in fact. Got sick on day one!

Drank two bottles of water, ate two packets of biscuits, slept for four hours and felt better, great in fact. Back out into the heat, it was about 90 (32C) and paid to enter the Hagia Sophia. Truly spectacular dome but the feeling of vastness was marred by reconstruction, scaffolding from floor to dome. A bit disappointing. Walked through the park like area to the Blue Mosque and sat outside for an hour, people watching. Will go in for a visit later when there aren’t so many visitors.

The day did not go exactly as planned and for a while there I thought “oh no”, but as evening falls, the temperature drops and the marvel of the Blue Mosque fills my view from the rooftop, hey, it could have been worse.