notreallytravelling

A Day out in Luang Prabang

Posted on February 12, 2012 | 2 comments

A very slow day in Luang Prabang as predicted. I did leave the hotel at 5.30am to catch the bus into town as one of the big attractions here is the early morning Binthabhat ceremony when the monks from the 30 odd monasteries in town process down the main street receiving alms from the citizenry. As well as receiving, the monks also donate some of the food stuffs they are given to the less fortunate, children mainly, as far as I could see.
Well this all sounds fine and admirable, however the reality is something completely different. I arrived, solo, sat on a low wall to watch and initially, in the dark, made out a long row of citizens sitting quietly with a pot of rice before them ready for the procession. All very heartwarming. However, as dawn broke, the light strengthened all hell broke loose. Convoys of laden SUVs, tuk tuks, and taxis arrived depositing hundreds of camera toting “people”, who proceeded to behave in the most appalling fashion. I watched, amazed, as a camera with a two foot lens was thrust inches from a two year old’s face. When the monks finally came along it really was a nightmare. People falling over themselves, and the monks, to get the best shot. There was even one group led by a guide with a megaphone telling his group where to stand and giving them advice on what was going to happen next. Ok, I was there too, but kind of hanging back, on the other side of the street, behind the parked SUVs etc and quite honestly I took more photos of the deranged mob than of the monks. Oh it was dreadful, quite ghastly, wretched even.
So, bus back to hotel feeling sorry for the state of mankind and other profound thoughts. Had a shower and breakfast and fortified walked back into town. Found the ferry terminal for transport up, down and across the Mekong River, sat there for over an hour absorbing the timeless activity and felt better about everything.
Time to potter about the town which I did for about three hours, had lunch, came back to the hotel as it got rather hot and took a two hour nap.
Back into town tonight for the joys of street food, though last night’s hotel dinner with wine was no more than $15.00 and it was good, well ok, well passable. Street food may be better.
This is the first day since leaving SF that I haven’t had a schedule and I feel quite refreshed, already looking for local adventures. There is a two day boat ride up the river, then two days back that sounds appealing.
btw, I think I unlocked the you tube video from HCMC about crossing the road. That seems a long time ago and somewhat irrelevant but those interested will find it at the bottom of the Ci Chu Tunnels page.
More as I go.

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Posted in Luang Prabang, Mekong River, solo travel, Travel

Tagged Luang Prabang, Mekong, Travel

From Hanoi to Luang Prabang via Vientiane.

Posted on February 11, 2012 | 2 comments

Amazing how a dull day can work out better than expected. 7.00am cab from the hotel out to the airport, alas no Skype this time as my SIM card had run out of minutes. Checking in, easy, security, easy, but then good old gate 6 stopped, and stopped. We took off 30 minutes late which is not usually a problem unless you have a connecting flight an hour after landing and need to get a visa, go through Customs and Immigration, get a boarding pass and find the gate.
Well, it was a non starter really. Landed, joined Visa queue, filled in form and waited, waited, waited. Gained position eight in the line with ten minutes to go when there appeared a charming Lao Airlines lady with my name on a card. Come sir, they are waiting. Oh ok fine, let’s just deal with all this. She grabs my forms, passport, photo and money emerging 90 seconds later with Visa, issued. Flew though Immigration in our own line, ignored Customs, dashed outside to the Domestic terminal, ran to check in. Shucks, says she, in Lao, they didn’t wait. Shucks, says I, in English, we gave it the good old college try. Not to worry sir, she bounced, you can just go into town, have lunch, wander about a bit, shop and come back for the 4.00pm flight. Ok great says I, see you later. This was around 11.30 I guess. Wait wait, I said, we must call my hotel, they are picking me up, well not picking me up, coz I won’t be there. Not a problem Mr Tim, by this time we had dropped the sir, I will call hotel and change pickup time. She did. I changed money, millions of Dong to thousands of Kip, then challenge, where am I going ? Not as if I am an old hand at finding my way around Vientiane, the Capital of Laos, is it? Out with the Guide Book, go here, go there, do this, do that, but whatever you do, eat French food. Hmm, that appeals. Guide book also said, go outside the airport where transportation is less expensive, I did. Grabbing bravado with both hands I took a tuk tuk, this is the front end of a two stroke motor cycle with a platform hanging off the back containing two very narrow seats, and a roof with a kind of two wheeled axle beneath. Quite exciting, no iced towels and frozen water in Vientiane.
Four dollars later I was dropped off on a street in downtown with a vague gesticulation towards the chosen restaurant, and he was off.
Glanced round nervously preparing to leap out of the way of marauding motor scooters, but wait, there are none. In fact people are walking about casually, in the middle of the street even, with nary a care in the world. There’s a smell, wood smoke, charcoal, fresh baked bread, food. The street is lined with restaurants, all busy, people to ing and fro ing, laughter, merriment, and no motor scooters, well, not many, and certainly not on the sidewalk. Awright. I walked about, people smiled, people did the hand clasping greeting thing. I relaxed. The Rough Guide was correct, fabulous French food. I had Coq au Vin avec le garlic bread aussie un seven up. Brilliant. Sat in the sun and revelled, I could really enjoy this. It’s like Vientiane rolled over and went to sleep when the French left 40/50 years ago and hasn’t woken up since. After the crazy craziness of HCMC, the bedlam that is Hanoi, the drive of HK I went a bit limp.
Open bracket. Joined by two Parisians who wanted to talk, we talked, my flow is interrupted. Sorry. Close bracket.
It’s warm, again, off with the jacket sleeves, roll up the shirt sleeves, hike duffel onto back and walked about. What a great city, it’s like no other capital I have ever visited, it’s so relaxed. I felt a bit exhausted after an hour of the wandering and straight away came across a temple with chanting monks, sat and absorbed for a little, then it was a tuk tuk back to the airport, feeling, well, rejuvenated , I guess.
So here I am, finally in Luang Prabang, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. I have not ventured out of the hotel yet as its kinda late but all indications are that it is exactly how I imagined it.
Magic.
More tomorrow.

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Posted in Uncategorized

Some photos of Ha Lang Bay. I hope I can do it justice.

Posted on February 10, 2012 | 2 comments

2 Comments

Posted in Ha Long Bay, solo travel, Travel

Tagged Ha Lang bay, Hanoi, Travel

An overnight on Ha Long Bay

Posted on February 10, 2012 | 3 comments

Hi there, went dark there for a time while on a boat for a night on Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I am now on the bus for the three hour ride back to Hanoi, in the rain.
Quite an early start yesterday, woke at 5.00 am, as usual, and went downstairs to see what was happening to find the front door locked. The night time receptionist appeared to let me out but have to wonder about fire escaping! Anyway, breakfasted and the bus came round to pick me up, on time at 8.00am.
A digression: a number of people have raised a couple of points so let me try to address them here. Yes, this has been a crazy, crazy week, I have been cramming events into my eighteen hour days leaving very little down time for me to just relax. Well that is now done, I have knocked so many destinations off my “bucket list” that I am taking the next two weeks off. I should be on the banks of the Mekong tomorrow in Luang Prabang where I fully intend to just potter and refuel. I wonder if there will be anything to post a blog about? Secondly, so far so good with the gear. Shirts and pants functioning as predicted, amazing how much pleasure I now get from a bath tub with a clothes line. My Packsafe Duffle bag is just right and I can now almost anchor it to an immovable object with my eyes closed. (it has built in theft deterring steel cable and padlock). The e-vest is truly a lifesaver, not only for going thro airport security, but on a daily basis too. I don’t get any odd looks on the street and the hourly tap round inventory is now second nature, as is the zipper check. A quick count reveals that I have eleven zippers sown into what I am wearing right now, not counting that one ! Lastly, the gadgets are proving their worth, here I am typing this into the Notes App on iPad, then will copy and paste it into WordPress when I am back online. I love the camera, Canon S100, it has a great low light feature which over rides the intrusive flash. The phone, with it’s Vietnamese SIM, is a useful tool for calling home (s). I have to say that standing on the shore of the South China Sea this morning having a detailed discussion about the plumbing in San Anselmo Ca. was somewhat surreal. What an age we live in, but I bet every generation says that.
Back to the tale. The three hour bus ride was dull, we, the thirty of us, had to introduce ourselves which I think I coped with adequately. Raised a slight ripple of laughter describing my accent choice, Merkin or Brit. We did stop once at a vast warehouse full of products made by people with physical challenges (PC). We were encouraged to go see the products being made which I did, for about thirty seconds, then I had to leave. I have thought a lot about privilege lately and may discuss the subject later when I have “got it sorted”. The fellow trip mates are six Aussies, four Brits, two Americans, three Canadians, four Dutch and can’t remember where the others are from. Mostly twenty somethings but also some my age ish, which is gratifying, and all very gregarious, going out of their way to be helpful and kind.
We arrived at Ha Long City and embarked into a small boat for the ride out to the cruise boat. Embarked without mishap, the locals really go out of their way to ensure their charges don’t fall in, ha ha. Found cabin, really nice, with bathroom and a back deck on the stern. Off we went. The crew tried to serve lunch as we entered the Bay but those romantics among us bailed on that and took to the top, open, deck. There we stood, open mouthed, gaping at this incredible scene as it unfolded before us. The splendidly named Janet Beveridge Bean, her particular friend Michael Wilkie from Chicago, the nurses from Canada Sandy, Jennifer, Lindsay and a couple from Windsor, UK, just stood there, speechless, taking photos, glancing at one another, I won’t say anyone gasped but there were audible “Wows”
Look up, round, down, up, forward, back, at every angle there was an ever changing exquisite view. Nature at its most magnificent.
We paused to disembark at a cave complex, “The Surprising Caves”. There were three interconnected caves, each one bigger, wider, taller than the previous, high up inside one of the limestone pinnacles. Many stairs but worth the energy. I was reminded of the movie “Logan’s Run”. Vast chambers, flood lit so we didn’t stumble, stalagmites, ‘tites and mutters of spelunking from Janet.
Back on board there was a cooking lesson on how to make Spring Rolls which I chose to ignore until it came time to roll your own, which I did. I have say that as Spring Rolls go mine was a masterpiece, however, MISTAKE, I took a bite. Kuong, the guide, rushed over, “Mr Tim Mr Tim, they must be cooked”. Oh. Mr Tim blanched, looked stupid, felt stupid, as Kuong fussed that I must immediately drink a bottle of water and take meds. I did. And panicked a bit. The Canadian nurses thought this was a huge joke, ha ha look at him, he’ll be dead any minute. As someone quipped, I failed cooking class. Please, no more talk of trichinosis. It seems to be ok, thus far. Consulted with nurses during bus break and their general opinion is that as I’m not dead yet I should be all right. Here’s hoping.
Then we got to hang out for a while. Had a beer with Janet and Michael. Determined that Michael is a metallurgical artist and Janet a singer, in three bands. So off we went on that one. We all changed for dinner, well I took my scarf off. Dinner was good, some mystery objects, following my earlier error I was cautious, to say the least. A couple of bottles of Shiraz then Michael kindly broke out the Johnny Walker Double Black Label. A couple of those and a great night’s sleep followed, just as well as my cabin was over the engine room which turned over all night, I didn’t hear a thing.
Up in darkness and was on deck to watch the dawn. Despite a light drizzle it continued to be stunning, I especially enjoyed seeing the monochrome turn to color with the strengthening light. Gallons of tea and a shower later we were off to a floating village, a ride in a bamboo boat and perfectly delicious fruit from a floating market boat.
Back on board for breakfast, more soup, omelets, toast, usual stuff. Then a huge hang around just off shore waiting for the little boat to take us off. Then a shorter hang around while we waited for our bus. And now here I am, 30 minutes out of Hanoi. This has been a great way to spend a bus ride, thanks to those who got this far.
Happy Birthday to Janet Beveridge Bean, and all in all it really was “quite good”.

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Posted in Ha Long Bay, solo travel, Travel

Tagged Ha Long Bay, Hanoi, solo travel, Travel

Early morning Thursday

Posted on February 8, 2012 | 4 comments

Here are a couple of notes before I go off.

Sorry about the font change in the last post. Addressed the problem on a new day but cannot work out how to change it back to normal. Hope it does not happen again.

Sorry about the youtube link. The opinion is that youtube is blocked here and I am not allowed to access the site to change any settings. I will try from a different country. Facebook is in a similar situation, I could access it in HCMC but not here, today.

The alleyway with hotel on left

It is before 6.00am and already the alley outside the hotel is a hive of activity. The lady across the way has set up her breakfast stall, up and down the alley lights are burning and people are scurrying about preparing for the new day, in the rain.

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Posted in Uncategorized

A travel day. HCMC to Hanoi.

Posted on February 8, 2012 | 6 comments

Well this is different, Hanoi. It’s bedlam ! Tiny, narrow streets and alleyways alive with families, babies, Grannies, cooking, shops, scooters, BMWs and bicycles. I love it. I hope I don’t offend but there seems to be an acute shortage of paint in this country or maybe it is the extended rainy season, May to September. But the rather interesting architecture is marred by rot and rust, everywhere I look I see the equivalent of San Francisco’s Painted Ladies, except they are not painted. I am sure the residents will get there, then watch the house prices. A minor quibble I suppose.

Had a great treat in the cab ride from the airport, a Skype video call back home. All participants amazed at the fact that we could do it. Fun for the Cali folk to say hi to the driver and see him too, fun for the driver come to that. Cries of disbelief as I turned the camera round so they could see where I was going, the freeway, the buses, green fields, trucks and of course, scooters. Gotta love the technology, especially when it’s FREE. It was great to see them all. Hi Guys.

Shortish post here as not really done much after the 90 minute flight up from HCMC. It’s like the flight from SF to Seattle, only 90 minutes in the air, but seems to take all day to get from door to door. I wandered around in the aforementioned expanding circles, much more difficult here as the layout of the city is like a labyrinth. Labyrinthian even ?

The hotel is great. Manager welcomed me with hot towels and fresh squeezed juice, sat me down to figure out what I wanted to do and I am now booked on an overnight cruise on Ha Long Bay tomorrow. Hey Ho, yet another 8.00am start. The good news is that there is a computer in the room so I have been diligently inserting photos into the last couple of posts. Don’t you just love all those boats on the Mekong ? Thanks for the enthuse Barbara in Lincolnshire. I may just have to give in and buy a cheapo laptop, maybe duty free in Vientiane.

So it’s good night from Hanoi and big thanks to all you commenters, it really helps. I like to think about y’all.

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A Day out on the Mekong Delta

Posted on February 7, 2012 | 3 comments

Mattias and Elinor taking it easy

Yesterday going to the Ci Chu Tunnels I mentioned a couple of Swedes on the tour bus, guess what, today it was just me, Mattias and Elinor on the tour to the Mekong Delta ! Elinor is a film animator, Mattias and I share an affinity for electrical pylons, turns out he builds them as well. Not too busy in the darkness of a Swedish Winter so here they are, enjoying the warmth.
8.00 am came round and we promptly departed.
It’s quite a drive to the Delta, about 95 miles, with the traffic and scooters this is about a two and a half hour drive.

Just like home in Cali'

Most of the distance is covered by the Ho Chi Minh Freeway (no kidding), the locals are quite proud of it as it has a central reservation. Head ons have been seriously reduced since its introduction I am happy to relate.

First view of Mekong

The first view of the river as we drew into the parking area was stupendous, just as I had imagined, only better. Hugely wide, just over a mile, alive with watercraft of every description chugging, steaming, speeding or just moored. Our guide, San, had filled us with some trepidation with instructions on moving slowly so as not to capsize, to check the life jackets, and such so we were expecting some sort of canoe. No, not really, the three of us made our way onto a rather large Sampan with chairs, driver and a roof. We chose to sit in a heap on the stern platform, the sun came out, my kind Swedish friends shared their sunscreen and we were off into the stream. Our first stop was to see the floating market where the local farmers bring their produce to sell or trade. Quite interesting but apparently much busier at dawn.

A long run across the river

Then we were off on a long stretch across the river to a narrow tributary which we gained after running aground once due to the receding tide. We paused to tour a sweet (candy) factory, Mattias and I muttered comments about child sweatshops and we tried to look interested. After some assurances that this was a family run business and that the young children were part of the family we thawed somewhat and began to pay attention.

Container ship, Mekong style

One of the main trade goods on the river is rice husks, these are used to provide heat for cooking. So we watched what we assumed was the manufacture of pop rice (think popcorn) which was then flavored with strawberry flavoring. It tasted ok, far too sweet for my taste but I see the appeal.

Tea on the banks of the Mekong

Tea was served and local delicacies offered, the local ginger was tasty but I fell for the Lotus seeds and even bought a packet. It apparently is a sleep aid and how I need that.
Lunch followed at a great looking old French Colonial house with a huge back garden converted into an open air restaurant, a highly surprising destination in a narrow spur of the Delta.

A surprisingly good lunch in an old Colonial

Elephant fish in rice paper with salad was followed by king prawns, then rice and unidentified meat, pot stickers, all deliciously fresh. We three were pleasantly surprised. Further up what could be called the bayou we paused for a short music recital by local musicians on local instruments. I was somewhat put off as we arrived as the previous group was leaving, to the strains of Auld Lang Syne!

The race is on at high tide, heading for the open sea, South China that is. Fantastic.

Then it was off again and turning a corner we found ourselves in the main stream, packed with boats all heading downstream on the rising tide. I was in boat heaven !
Following that, we went to a brick factory, yes a brick factory. It was quite interesting tho Mattias and I muttered sweat shops again. It is a massive operation with enormous kilns baking hundreds of thousands of bricks at a time. Then it was over and we came back to HCMC through the rush hour, a three hour drive.
All in all a great day on the river and I wish there was an easy way to share photos instantly using the iPad. I will keep looking and will try and endure the glares in business centers.
To Hanoi in the morning. See you there.

Only 5,000,000 scooters in this City

Bye bye scooterland, oh, and correction, there are 8 million people in HCMC and five million scooters, there are half a million cars. Enough said.

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Posted in Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong River, solo travel, Travel

Tagged mekong delta, solo travel, Travel

The Ci Chu Tunnels.

Posted on February 6, 2012 | 3 comments

Early morning decision made to go to the Cu Chi Tunnels.
This 150 square mile complex built originally by the local residents to hide from the French was started in 1948. With the arrival of the American forces in 1965 the complex was adopted by the Viet Kong who reinforced the tunnels and built two further deeper levels.

A crater not filled with tunnelling debris

These deeper tunnels provided protection from the bombs dropped by the B52s. I was wrong about them extending to the Lautian border, it is the Cambodian.
End of history lesson.
What’s great here is the opportunity to be spontaneous, I made the decision to take the tour at 6.00am and by 8.00 I was on the bus. A few Aussies, couple of Swedes, one American and half a dozen Brits. The Saigon Tourist bus was air-conditioned and the tour guide Phuong was extremely knowledgeable and, to give him extra credit, delightfully coherent.

Traffic photo

We chugged out of Saigon through the swarming motor scooters and for probably the first ten miles averaged probably 10 MPH. Then we were out in the countryside and I saw my first field since arriving. Not sure what was growing but sure was good to see green again.

The drive is an hour and a half total so we were at the gate by 10.00 am, thankfully before it got too hot.

The explanation of the Cu Chi complex at the start of the tour

Inside a tunnel, concrete now but I am sure it was not originally

Comments going forward could be fraught, but, I was there, so here goes. They do say I believe that “The victor gets to write the history” and to be honest this tiny nation, admittedly with outside help, booted the good ol’ United States back home. The introductory movie I have seen critiqued on Trip Advisor as blatant propaganda, hmm, ever seen a movie about how the US won World War Two ? No, it wasn’t propaganda, just a straightforward description of what went on in the District of Cu Chi between 1965 and 1975. I have been fortunate enough, if you can say that, to have visited the sites of the Trench Battles of WW1, the Beaches of Normandy, Colloden, even the site of Valley Forge and frankly, Cu Chi is and deserves to be right there with those monumental memorials.
So, enough pontificating from me and thanks to my Sister for applying the necessary pressure last night when I was vacillating.

The Grande Dame of HCMC hotels

On a lighter note: I did go to the Majestic Hotel for tea and inhaled the atmosphere imaging what it must have been like back in the day. The grand old hotel is full of charm and auld worldliness, though how it will cope with the 30 odd storey annexe remains to be seen.
I wonder if this will work:

Tomorrow I am off to the Mekong Delta, more after that.
Thanks for the comments people.

3 Comments

Posted in Ci Chu, Ho Chi Minh City, Travel

Tagged Ci Chu, HCMC, majestic hotel

Arrival into Ho Chi Minh City

Posted on February 5, 2012 | 5 comments

“I am sorry Sir we cannot allow you on this flight, you’re papers are not in order”
Oh how I dislike hearing those words, could be a very bad start to the day!
Back up a bit or even a lot. Way back in October 2010 I booked this Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City flight, so I certainly am not winging it, yet. In November of 2011 I started the micro planning, visas, hotels, airport pickups and the like. Vietnam is special as one has to tell the immigration office exactly what flight # one is arriving on and where. Not a problem. Filled in all the correct forms online, received an Application for Entry and Exit on the email to duplicate with a space for my photo and blank questions for me to answer etc etc. Also another form that told me all the other people arriving that day in HCMC plus a letter from the Immigration Department of The Socialist Republic of Vietnam specifying me by name, Nationality, Port and Date of Entry inviting me to collect my Visa at my arrival airport.
In the boarding line and pounced upon by official, escorted to the desk which is where I heard the heart stopping words above. Hmm, be courteous, keep smiling, don’t lose it. Apparently most people have a visa stamped into their passports but these days, with the advent of the Internet, the opportunity to apply in advance and have the Visa issued at the port of entry has been instituted. Eventually, after the desk crew scrutinized the five pages issued to me by the Vietnamese Immigration Service I got my boarding pass stamped and here I am, 63A. CX767.
Surely I cannot be the first person to show up for a flight to Vietnam Nam with these e-forms. Baffling. But I am sure I shall encounter further interesting situations….
Time to listen to The Boards of Canada and chill a bit at 39,000 feet over the South China Sea. Oh, the thrill of it all.
So now here I be, downtown Ho Chi Minh City. Let’s start with “it’s different”.
Though maybe that is an understatement. Leaving the comparative peace of the Arrivals area and going outside is entering mayhem, hundreds and hundreds of people waiting for loved ones to arrive from all over the world, complete pandemonium. Plus of course the temperature is about 40 degrees warmer than HK. I was quickly reduced to a perspiring wreck. Searched and searched for my hotel’s ride into town, difficult to say the least with all those people in the way. Eventually found car and driver and let me tell you, a bottle of cold water and an iced towel have rarely been so welcome.
Checked into hotel, had a quick Skype ,back home to California, that was great, and set out to explore…and explore….and explore. First, the motor scooters, there are 3.5 million people in HCMC and it looks like each one owns a motor scooter and each of the 3.5 million were all out on a bright sunny Sunday afternoon. Someone (thanks George) advised me to just step off the sidewalk and walk across the street, the scooters will avoid you, hmm, well, so far so good. !
I do have a method for the said exploring, walk out of hotel, walk round block back to hotel, then expand to two blocks, then three etc. it seems to work. HCMC has a lot in common with many other cities I have visited, ie, two to three hustlers on each street. I have been offered everything from a shoe shine, a scooter tour, money exchange to, well, this is a family blog, but you can imagine ! Over and over again. Ha.
After I had got about five blocks out from the hotel the 5.00am started to take its toll, so here I am in the Saigon Saigon bar at the Caravelle. I’m sure I read somewhere that it, the bar, was featured in Graham Greene’s The Quiet American and now I have lost the reference. Many references to the Majestic by the river so will check that out tomorrow maybe, after going to the tunnels. What tunnels? The Viet Kong complex at Cu Chi which apparently extends all the way to the Laotian border.
We shall see.
PS. Sorry about the lack of captions on the Photos of Hong Kong page. Next lesson for me.