Pampered in Samet

   Heading south over the Gulf of Thailand. Its exciting just to be able to say that. From Utapao International Airport which has to be the smallest airport I have ever flown out of, only two fights per day. A motley collection of fellow passengers and sorry to say most of them are sexpats from the fleshpots of Pattaya, with their young girlfriends. Two of them are huge roughnecks from the oil fields of North Dakota who I would not care to meet on a dark night, the girlfriends, tiny. There are a couple of families, two Swiss guys who seem a bit hungover and pale, that’s about it. Me of course, Kinda Blue, after saying bye bye to such a friendly family I am lost for words. 

Notes From A Small Island. (Sorry Bill Bryson)

   You may remember I fell in with a group of people on the ferry over to Samet and we all got together, every day I think. I found a fellow computer/gadget nerd in the Tim from the south of England, we may have bored the pants off the others but tried to geek out only when the others were away. His fiancé, Danielle, or Binnzey, was always bundles of Yorkshire laughs and what would we have done without her to figure out the balances of the dinner check.

   They left for the jungles of the north and it was just five, admittedly one was eight months and another three years, but sure as …… we were five. Luca the Dad, who turned out to be a qualified Doctor, not a med student at all, announced we would rent a scooter, a scooter, not two, just one. After running into the back of a bus with my first born in utero I have a mild fear of two wheeled machines. But he seemed to have the situation under control and, after all, he was a Doctor. He picked me up from my hotel and we sped down to the southern tip of the island where he had dropped off Julie, Mom, and Paulina, eight month old, earlier. A pretty cove with an ok resort, painted villas in multi colors, nice food for lunch, not expensive, nothing is, then some package tour visitors from a small island off the North coast of Europe arrived, we left. Making our way North again I thought Luca was joking, but no, we were all five on the scooter. Amalie kept us all in the right mood, ie fearless, by giggling infectiously every time the driver beeped, which he did frequently. We were quite a sight. There are photos to prove it. We wended (?) our way up the coast, found a French resort, found a Russian resort and found one where we were not allowed to enter, $2,000 per night for the least expensive room and on up from there. How nuts is that. 

   Finally the eight month old (Paulina) announced she was done with such uncomfortable accommodations, so we dropped her off by the side of the road with Julie for a bit of a feed and proceeded to the next resort. Amalie and I were dropped at the gate while Luca went back to retrieve the rest of his family. Walking down the steep hill into the resort it suddenly struck me, ok, this is fine, looking after a three year old, but I don’t speak any German! It was fine though, she delighted in the fish pools, we made finger food out of sand, I bought her an ice cream and all was right with the world. The others caught up and we indulged in sundowner cocktails and I played the idiot with the setting sun. Back then later to the beach where we had found an eminently convenient restaurant where they threw blankets on the sand, put a table on top and served dinner. Perfect for small people, perfect too if one wished to indulge in the local hootch (rum), not too far to fall.

   We had some moments, actually lots of moments. Here’s one: my money belt got tangled up with the string that holds my swimmies up, under my shorts. I had to, as it were, peer, to untangle the mess.”Is everything ok Tim?” said Julie, hesitantly. Hilarity ensued and I could only reply “debatable”.  Lots of moments,  but then it was off on the speedboat ferry to the mainland, a short taxi ride to the airport and fly away. They are now spending six months looking after Burmese orphans up near the border, Julie at the school and Luca at the hospital. I wish them great success and hope to be able to cross paths with them again somewhere. 

Who knows?

Five on the scooter.

Five on the scooter.

Corny photo. I can add it to the one of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Corny photo. I can add it to the one of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

An interesting phenom' one morning.

An interesting phenom’ one morning.

The 'path' between the beaches.

The ‘path’ between the beaches.

A group outing on a boat with apologies to Paulina!

A group outing on a boat with apologies to Paulina!

Paulina started to crawl. Much excitement.

Paulina started to crawl. Much excitement.

Tim in Thailand

Hi and hello. I hear rumors that you have missed me. There have been phone calls, emails, texts, where’s Tim? Has he been kidnapped? Is he alright? Sick? Where is he? Short answer, Samet, in the Gulf of Thailand. It is a mere speck of an island only five Kms from top to bottom and about point five across. It is thankfully underdeveloped probably due to the roads, if you could call them roads, potholed tracks might be a better description. No high rises, no ghastly ‘resorts’, no hustlers,  few beach sellers. There is a party scene but some way away from where I am. I like it.

My visa was up in China so I looked around for cheap flights out of Shanghai and found a red eye to Bangkok. The price seemed right and no visa forms are required in advance so I went for it. Then I found I could get the MagLev to the airport. Hold me back. Short for Magnetic Levitation it is the world’s fastest train, 200 MPH. A very smooth ride out of town to Shanghai’s big, new modern airport, no hassle through emigration, though my checked  bag had to be opened and inspected. I was carrying too much money in it, Uzbek Som notes, which you may remember are practically worthless. Anyway, the lady was very friendly and I moved them from the checked bag to my carry on and she seemed satisfied….go figure. Then a huge plane, I was in row 72 and away for the four hours to Bangkok.

I was met, praise be, and quickly transferred to my hotel, where I was greeted at reception at 3am by hand clasping and smiling Thais. I will accentuate smiling, at 3am. Oh joy. Smiles at last. The first for many weeks. I had two beers from the mini bar and sighing with relief fell asleep. Up early later I ventured out into the streets of the city and found that maybe I was in the wrong place. Was I in Torremolinos,  Cancun? Vodka shots at 10.30am? Lots of vodka shots. Conga lines, Karaoke, group sing-along’s. This is not going to last long I say to myself. I put myself in an awkward situation as I have an old friend who lives and works here, at The British Club in fact. I called and spoke to him, gave him my local phone number and the name of my hotel and he said he would call and we would do lunch. He didn’t call. I extended my stay. He didn’t call. I left town.

I caught a bus, a small bus, down the Gulf coast east of Bangkok, to a small port where I could catch a ferry to the small island of Samet babout a half hour off the coast. The boat seemed reluctant to leave so all of us from the bus got to chatting, a German couple from Munich, Luca, a med’ student, his wife Julia, a Montessori teacher (!), Amalie aged two and Paulina at eight months. There were also Tim from the New Forest in Hampshire (UK) and his fiancée, Danielle from Hull, Yorkshire. We had a grand time, the others all booked themselves into the same hotel and the one I had pre-booked on the Internet is only a five minute walk away so we get together most days and pass the time.

   That really is the problem, we just pass the time, eat meals, play with the children, and pass the time. There is nothing much really to write about. The guy selling brooms from a pole slung over his back passes by every morning, which is a major event in my day. The lady with a portable BBQ cooking chicken and fish slung over her shoulder makes an appearance and then disappears. The monsoon makes the occasional rain shower, and everyone heads for shelter. It soon passes. Chinese tourists, mostly young women, appear in speed boats, disembark, take selfies, take group selfies, giggle, screech at each other and then vanish. Where do they come from, where do they go? The hotel staff take breakfast out to the Buddha shrine in the grounds every morning and leave it there as an offering. Wonderfully charming. The beach I am staying on is quiet, very quiet, I count four others on it right now, but a short walk North or South reveals busy beaches and restaurants. Lots and lots of restaurants so as well as taking a rest from the last few weeks I can eat, and eat. The menus are all in English, the food when it arrives is recognizable as food and so I have been catching up after the foodless weeks. The food is delicious, curries for me mostly, rice of course, green vegetables, fruit and I think I may be losing that rather gaunt, starving look. I certainly feel better and have stopped sneezing finally. That has been going on since the yurt in Kyrgyzstan.

   I took advisement before even considering posting this as I didn’t want to annoy everyone with the dull, same old, same old stories of Thailand. I have heard enough to last a lifetime. But there is my contribution. I only got a short stay visa so will be moving on again soon. I hope to return to Cambodia and see some of the things I missed last time, The Plain of Jars, the Tonle Sap river flowing in the opposite direction, maybe take in more of the temples at Angkor, return to Kep, see more of the Mighty Mekong. Be assured that if something notable occurs you will know about it soonest, but I doubt that it will. The tide goes out. The tide comes in. And everyone smiles.

Typical Thai. About fifty yards away.

Typical Thai. About fifty yards away.

 

 

Shanghai.

Warning: This post contains graphic images and descriptions. Of buildings!

Shanghai was overwhelming. I was overwhelmed. Every moment was overwhelming. Every glance, up, down, sideways, every which way was a visual, shattering blow to the senses. Lets get right to it. Shanghai is divided into two major parts divided by a river, the Huangpu. There is the old colonial section (Pu Xi) on the West side of the river fronted by a street called the Bund and on the East side is Pudong, which as recently as twenty years ago was green fields and the occasional factory. Between the Bund and the river is a very long walkway for the crowds of citizens to stroll along of an evening and enjoy the views of Pudong over on the other side. What crowds, what views. My first sight of Pudong took my breath away. Of course I had seen pictures but nothing could have prepared me for the reality of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. A staggeringly unique piece of architecture it dominates the skyline even though some of the adjacent buildings are taller. I would love to be able to describe it adequately. It’s round, it’s vertical, it soars, it flows, it floats, it exudes daring, it appears to defy gravity. Ok, I’ll shut up now, but wait until you see the photos.

Then there were the crowds on the Bund , swollen I suppose by the fact that I was there during the long, seven day, National Holiday. There is an expression, a sea of people, this was no sea, this was an ocean, a Pacific Ocean of people. I think dusk was the peak period, when everyone came to see the effect of the sunset over the river. The whole family came out, Moms and Dads, the kids and the older folk, bringing their bags of fruit, soft drinks, (no booze), and their phones. Everyone had a phone and was taking pictures with it, of each other, of the view, of themselves, of me! With me! Interesting how one could see similarities from home, there were hipsters, there were punks, arty students, drama kings and queens, fashionistas, poseurs, even a Goth or two. But it was the immensity of the crowd that really impressed me, it was like Oxford Street on the day before Christmas, The Marina district for July 4th fireworks, Princes Street at Hogmanay,combined. It was all reasonably good natured, no drunkenness, no agro, no pushing, shoving, no bad mouthing. But loud, incredibly loud, everyone was talking, at full volume. I sat and gawped for some hours, every evening. And took pictures with my phone. The crowd control personnel were of course much in evidence. There were police squads at every intersection backed up by the militia, unarmed though, not even truncheons, but they did have whistles, and they used them, frequently. They didn’t even look fierce, just young kids, standing to attention in their uniforms. Keeping in mind the situation in Hong Kong I tried to judge the political mood of the crowd, I couldn’t. (TV news has been blacked out for three days and equally I haven’t been able to access the Internet from my computer). I did come across an impromptu dance music party, portable speakers and a generator, and watched it being closed down really quickly by big men in white shirts. Everyone just drifted off.

Anecdotally, I was on the Bund on the first evening of the Holiday at around 4oclock and noticed people sitting down anywhere they could, on walls, steps, the ground and thought, great, fireworks. So I found a spot to perch and waited. More people sat down around me until movement was just about impossible. The railing along the river’s bank was jammed, ten people deep. Darkness fell. The lights in and on the buildings across the river came on and everyone gasped, took more pictures, and that was it. My expectations I suppose, nobody but me was disappointed. I found that quite interesting. A Western thing to expect pyrotechnics on major holidays? But wait, these guys invented fireworks. Maybe they do them on a different holiday.

Shall I mention walking down Nanjing street, a pedestrian shopping area? More crowds, a shoppers paradise, its one of the top ten shopping streets in the world and the things for sale were not only material! Ahem! I took three bus tours around the City and visited some Temples. The French Quarter looked interesting, but alas, no time. There is a fabulous Opera House, a huge museum, the stadiums from the recent Olympics, lots and lots to see, but not in three days. I went on a coach tour to see the tea plantations but didn’t see any, the Yangtze River, didn’t see that either, we did go to a water village, kind of a Chinese mini Venice and a craft shop or two. There was a silk factory, poor worms! More shopping. It took ten hours from door to door.

China is big and there are lots of people.

Pudong waterfront from the Bund.

Pudong waterfront from the Bund.

What a masterpiece.

What a masterpiece.

Night view.

Night view.

Crowd.

Crowd.

Crowd control.

Crowd control.

A tranquil part of the water village. Unlike the rest of it.

A tranquil part of the water village. Unlike the rest of it.

Beijing.

South we go today on the high speed train from Beijing to Shanghai. Cities? Love them or hate them, I found Beijing hard to love. There was the famous smog, oh so horrible, which pervades everything. It reduces visibility and while you might think you are breathing normally just wait until you blow your nose! It is the nation’s capital, so everything is overpriced and you have to continually weigh up whether this purchase is really necessary. A beer in one bar is half the cost at the bar just across the street only fifty yards away. There were hustlers too and I fell for it on day one. The route firmly in my mind I set off to walk from the hotel to the Forbidden Palace, only a half hour walk and mostly a straight line. But. Two beaming students fell in step with me and welcomed me to Beijing. Fine. Nice. They followed me into the travel agency. Odd. Off to the Palace again they suggested that I might like to see their art exhibit. Well OK. We wove through arrow streets and I completely lost my sense of direction. More weaving and we came to their studio, nice enough, but no thank you, I don’t want to buy anything. And left in a bit of a huff. I was then lost for the next while and the only part of the Forbidden City I located was the moat by which time I was exhausted. Back then to the hotel and a nap and a wasted day in Beijing. Grumble grumble.

The hotel Concierge to the rescue. The excellent Yina, apologizing for the art students, calmed me down, dusted me off and suggested a trip the see the Great Wall the next day. When I said I wanted to see the Forbidden Palace as well she told me to turn on my computer in my room and book an extra day online as it would be less than half the price of extending my stay at the reception desk. OK, great. That worked. Then the travel agency found me a train ticket to Shanghai. Things were looking up after a rather bad start. Sure, I felt a bit stupid but worse things have happened in other Capital Cities, there was that time in Rome…….

To the Wall I went. Not to Badaling , the popular destination, but a bit further away to a place called Mutianyu where there is a cable car ride up into the mountains. This of course would be wonderful except I suffer from vertigo, or just a fear of cable cars in general. Would you believe it, my phone worked and I could text back home. Soothing words, again, just think of it as the ride up to that winery in Napa Valley (Stirling). OK, sure, but there’s no wine at the end of this ride. Bravery won the day and off I went. It got better. I could text photos of the Great Wall, with a slight delay, from a cable car, in the mountains of China, to our small town in Northern California. Things have changed, no more waiting until you get home to develop the film and then get reprints and then post them, in an envelope, with a stamp. Oh no, not any more. This is 2014, we text our photos of the Great Wall from our phones and they are received, thousands of miles away, on the other side of the planet, in a matter of seconds.

Brilliant!

I did visit the Forbidden Palace but that was preceded by a quite extraordinary event:

I was chatting with the Concierge staff about my taxi ride to the Palace and asked if they would explain to the driver to drive past Tiananmen Square on the way so I could at least glimpse it. It is rather famous. Yina hummed and hawed then said, come on, I’ll take you, in one of my cars. Pardon? Take me? One of your cars? Sure, lets go, it’s a bit slow today and it will be a good lesson for one of the trainees. Down into the bowels of the staff parking lot and we piled into her rather smart Buick van. On the way she explained that she wanted a BMW but her husband had reservations as he thought she drove too fast. I got to see the famous Square in some style and didn’t have to join any of the huge security lines to gain access. They worry about the Falun Gong setting themselves on fire she explained, nonchalantly. She took photos for me out of the driver’s side window. I heard great stories about the Olympics, how an Australian tv crew were staying at the hotel and couldn’t be bothered to attend some of the events they were supposed to cover so gave the tickets to the staff. She had been to the gymnastics and the swimming, for free. Not only that. The tv crew had their own butler, provided by the hotel, who used the two tickets the crew gave him to the Opening Ceremony to treat his Dad. And Then. He sold his two tickets to the Closing Ceremony, bought a new car and retired back to his village. $10k each. Eat yer hearts out Olympic fans. It was great, she said, all the subways and buses were free for the duration of the Games, but nobody at the hotel used them, they all had to stay in the basement parking lot which was converted into dormitories. They were paid for 24 hours a day for the duration of the Games, but worked regular shifts. Nice.

She dropped me off at the Palace ticket office, explaining that the trainee would escort me round if I paid for his ticket. Hey, no problem…..Hmm, but, not only had he never been to the Palace before but his English was, shall we say, a bit limited. I gave him my camera and he happily snapped away. My history is a bit rusty but I think there was a war sometime at the beginning of the Twentieth Century. The Eight Allies? Opium Wars? Anyway the invading army completely looted the Palace. Quite disappointing. The buildings themselves were a marvel to behold, but I felt it was all a bit sad so I won’t go on. Or am I just a Philistine?

I gave the hotel and Concierge staff a five star revue on Trip Advisor.

Attempting the arty shot.

Attempting the arty shot.

Not too crowded.

Not too crowded.

Off into the distance.....

Off into the distance…..

Just in case you have forgotten what I look like.

Just in case you have forgotten what I look like.

It was a quiet day on the Wall.

It was a quiet day on the Wall.

There he is.

There he is.

It is a very large square.

It is a very large square.

There he is again. He does rather dominate the scene.

There he is again. He does rather dominate the scene.

Mao's mausoleum.

Mao’s mausoleum.

Forbidden Palace.

Forbidden Palace.

Xian and the Terracotta Warriors.

293km/h we are streaking across central China in one of those famous ultra fast trains. Pausing periodically at undistinguished towns and cities that all feature the same crane topped apartment blocks, building, building, building. There is widespread fog or mist on the land, the locals refer to it as haze, but I think it is just regular old smog. There was talk of a typhoon at the coast but I see little evidence of it blowing away the clouds and fumes. The whole landscape has a vaguely ghostly air about it, I cannot see very far so fields, villages, towns and cities, chimneys, factories and chemical works loom out of the murk and then are gone, in a flash.

We left Xian exactly at 11.00am, obviously, and I felt a bit of a twinge, the City had grown on me over the last few days. I was staying within the walls of the old city, seven kilometers around, and there was always a bustle going on. Buses loaded with commuters, streams of bicycles and scooters, happy walking shoppers, laughing students, the click clack of high heels and the clatter of suitcase wheels over concrete. The sidewalks were extremely wide, as not only did they serve the pedestrians but also doubled as parking areas for cars, vans and even buses. Eyes required in back of head! Earlier I had been met at the train station after a nine hour ride down the Yellow River Valley by Monica holding a sign with my name on it, that was a first. She and Mr Lee duly escorted me to my hotel with promises that I should see them again the next morning at 10.00am. Not an unreasonable hour I thought and agreed. Morning came and we piled into Mr Lee’s van and headed off to see the main attraction here in Xian, The Terracotta Army.

It is now Thursday and we were off to see the Eighth Wonder of the World on Monday and I am still not sure what to say about it. I have this trepidation, and maybe you do too, that when you have heard for years and years how wonderful something is, that when you approach it you get this feeling, well it can’t be that great. You have heard the story no doubt about the farmer in the mid 1970s who was digging a well on his land and found a cache of two thousand year old terracotta statues of soldiers, horses, chariots and the like. The archeological find of the Century, rivaling King Tutankhamen. The world went mad, foreigners, frowned upon by the Chinese Government of the day descended on Xian to see the phenomenon. The local population, lacking the funds, were indifferent.

All that has changed. The land of the well digging farmer (I shook his hand!) and that of his neighbors is now a vast tourist destination. People from all over China and the world now flock to the site, there are restaurants, cafes, an enormous ‘craft’ market, shops, parkland, cultivated orchards, public loos, the whole shebang. There I was with my trepidation and Monica, giving me the spiel. She was actually very good, very knowledgeable, personable and had a sense of humor so I felt a kind of relaxation as we approached the first site. Resembling an aircraft hanger, truly huge, we, the people were completely dwarfed. And there they were, in serried ranks, thousands and thousands of infantrymen, each face unique, based on the artist who created it, staring at me across two thousand years. My jaw did drop. A long way. I couldn’t speak. I couldn’t move. There was no getting away from it, this is not a place for cynics, trepidation, or even flippancy. The speed tours raced past led by their flag waving guides but Monica was content to let me just stop and stare, wonder and think, contemplate and reflect. It was the kind of experience that brings one down to earth with a distinct THUMP.

Next Beijing. I wonder if the smog is as bad as the media suggests…….. It is!

Many warriors.

Many warriors.

The famous view that you see when you first walk in.

The famous view that you see when you first walk in.

With horses.

With horses.

I really liked the horses.

I really liked the horses.

I may have just passed this guy in the street!

I may have just passed this guy in the street!

The most famous one.

The most famous one.

The Great Wall of China in Jiayuguan

I am in Jiayuguan (pronounced Jiaooguan and spoken very fast. Just one syllable) which is a not very nice place but does mark the extreme Western point of the Great Wall. I visited what is referred to as ‘ The Overlook’ today and I was the only person there. No guides, no market place, no cars in the huge parking lot. Maybe it has something to do with the National Holiday. Fireworks started going off very early and have continued throughout the day. Boom Bang Bang echoing off the high rise apartment blocks. I made an attempt at looking it up and all I can come up with is ‘Mooncake Day’. Sounds delightful doesn’t it.

The grumpy driver picked me up and we headed out of town past smoking chimneys, blast furnaces, mills and great big horrible cooling towers until we reached the country. We parked, outside the parking lot, and the driver indicated I should get out and walk….that way, pointing. OK, fine. Off I set, past a tranquil lake with a couple of fisherfolk until I reached the remains of a fort, with a ramp ascending. I ascended. And found myself on The Great Wall of China. That has to be life defining moment. I walked, up again, sigh. Ramps, stairs, nothing to clutch hold of for support, no rail. Here are some views:

Stretching away for thousands of miles.

Stretching away for thousands of miles.

Right into the sun, but quite awe inspiring none the less.

Right into the sun, but quite awe inspiring none the less.

The Gobi in the background and one of those strange Silk Road memorials in the foreground.

The Gobi in the background and one of those strange Silk Road memorials in the foreground.

Right into the sun. This could either be an interesting effect or just terrible.

Right into the sun. This could either be an interesting effect or just terrible.

More of same. Wall. Desert.

More of same. Wall. Desert.

Not sure if I could have walked up there.

Not sure if I could have walked up there.

The position of the sun was problematical.

The position of the sun was problematical.

Crescent Lake. Dunhuang. Photos.

I know this "thumbnail" looks a bit dark. If you right click it (Windows) or Control click (Mac) you should be able to view in full screen. Quite a pretty vista.

I know this “thumbnail” looks a bit dark. If you right click it (Windows) or Control click (Mac) you should be able to view in full screen.
Quite a pretty vista.

A close up, but I think it is better with the jaw dropping background.

A close up, but I think it is better with the jaw dropping background.

In the foreground is the lip of the dune I climbed.

In the foreground is the lip of the dune I climbed.

Part of the merry band!

Part of the merry band!

I liked this one though it was nearly dark by then.

I liked this one though it was nearly dark by then.

Shadows lengthen.

Shadows lengthen.

That was 'my dune'. You can see the route.

That was ‘my dune’. You can see the route.

A photo from a rest stop.

A photo from a rest stop.

Partial view.

Partial view.

Early on the climb.

Early on the climb.

What a team!

What a team!

Crescent Lake. Dunhuang.

Crescent Lake. Dunhuang.

Thanks to the lady at reception I put my computer almost on top of the router. Much better upload speed.

Crescent Lake, Dunhuang.

I rode a camel! A quite respectable beast, it didn’t spit at me or even attempt to bite me. It’s two humps were comfortable to lodge between, it was an almost relaxing ride. Terror of course as it lurched perilously close to a sheer drop of two hundred feet but it was only sand so I figured it might be a soft landing. The point of the camel ride was somewhat elusive, I thought I was riding up, and up, the massive sand dune to gain an aerial view of the famous Crescent Lake far below. But no sooner had we reached the Dune’s summit where the view might have been possible we, the camel and I, turned around and headed down again. Wretched thing. All was not entirely lost however, we came to the camel turnaround where I genteelly alighted after the massive lurch of the camel kneeling and set off down the path in search of the elusive lake. I found it. It has survived the ravages of the desert for hundreds of years due to its unique position amongst the massive dunes which apparently flow round it with the prevailing winds, rather than over it. It is fed by a spring. At lake level it was quite pretty but for the full “wow” factor it was clear that I would have to climb one of the aforementioned massive dunes and take in the whole scene. Hyperbole you might think it is but when I say massive these dunes were huge, enormous, gigantic, and of course, they were made of sand. Not easy climbing. I sat at the bottom of one dune and contemplated my fate. Others were climbing but they appeared to be students, vacationing, and out for a lark. I didn’t notice anyone like me, I mean not only in accumulation of years but also home base. Nobody from the West at all, not one. Come on me, don’t let the side down, we can show ’em, so off I went, UP. There were short poles on the surface joined together with rope which did actually make some sort of purchase for my shoes and at least prevented me sinking into the sand up to my knees. Steep though, very steep, almost vertical and I soon had to stop. As did the little group I found myself leading. We sat in a huddle gasping, smiling and gazing upward, can we do this? Onward with cries of Let’s Go, and on we went. I think they were mimicking me, not sure, but we ascended and our group grew. Another rest, more smiling and gazing upward, I began to feel a bit Forrest Gumpish. It took two more rests to reach the summit, we all made it and yes, the view was spectacular, well worth the climb. A sort of international camaraderie developed in the group and we all took photos of each other as well as the Lake far far below. The people looked like ants down there and we all sat around in the sand watching the crazy sledders careening down the slope, the ultra lights circling overhead,  the rich people in their choppers and the ever changing shadows on the dunes as the sun set. I have been fortunate to see a few beautiful lakes about the place, Maggiore, Tahoe,  Lomond, Como, Windemere, Ness, Neagh, Superior even, and the like, but this was unique. It was like a painting that constantly changed. I was transfixed and took far too many photographs.

We all sat there until almost dusk, more people came up, gasping, sweating but laughing as they reached the top. At the market in the parking lot brightly colored scarves were sold and, purchased by the ladies to keep the sand out of their hair, eyes and ears they all made a colorful show. Off road vehicles appeared to ferry the sledders down, I was really tempted to offer money for a ride back down. That was a concern, discussed with enormous difficulty, how do we get back down! We can’t possibly follow the short poles back down, it would take forever and be way too difficult. People were actually doing it, awkwardly and dangerously, there were frequent and inelegant sprawls. Casting around for a solution I came across an early experience in the Scottish Hills with my sister, scree jumping. It can’t be that much different. Shoes off I tried it. It worked. So we set off, leaping and bounding, leaning backwards in case of falls, and running so we didn’t sink into the sand. It was hilarious. People clapped. So much fun.

    Looks like I have used up all your time so I’ll stop now. Hopefully there will be an opportunity to tell you some of the other delights of Dunhuang in another post. This train ride has mostly been across the desert tho which one is a bit of a mystery.  Some guide books suggest it is one of the Gobis, yes, there is more than one, the Greater and the Smaller. Others say it is the Taklamakan, the largest in China. I don’t know, but a desert it is. For over an hour we passed through a wind farm, an hour. That suggests that it was some sixty miles long and I have no idea how wide, the windmills stretched to the horizon and out of sight. Maybe someone read the memo about pollution and coal fired power stations.
I know this "thumbnail" looks a bit dark. If you right click it (Windows) or Control click (Mac) you should be able to view in full screen. Quite a pretty vista.

I know this “thumbnail” looks a bit dark. If you right click it (Windows) or Control click (Mac) you should be able to view in full screen.
Quite a pretty vista.

A close up, but I think it is better with the jaw dropping background.

A close up, but I think it is better with the jaw dropping background.

In the foreground is the lip of the dune I climbed.

In the foreground is the lip of the dune I climbed.

Part of the merry band!

Part of the merry band!

I liked this one though it was nearly dark by then.

I liked this one though it was nearly dark by then.

Shadows lengthen.

Shadows lengthen.

That was 'my dune'. You can see the route.

That was ‘my dune’. You can see the route.

A photo from a rest stop.

A photo from a rest stop.

Partial view.

Partial view.

Early on the climb.

Early on the climb.

What a team!

What a team!

Crescent Lake or Yueyaquan in Chinese, Dunhuang.

Crescent Lake or Yueyaquan in Chinese, Dunhuang.

Turpan, Xinjiang, China.

Described in the books as an oasis town on the edge of the Gobi Desert I would have to disagree. Town, perhaps it was, but now there are massive developments being built on the outskirts transforming it into quite a large city. All the new apartment block have solar panels on their roofs, interesting. Last night I wandered about and took a look. Right outside my hotel there is a boating lake, with boats, so I strolled around that along with other inhabitants. There were students reading, Moms with babies, Grandparents with kids feeding the fish, there was a stage setup for the Regional Singing and Dancing Competition, restaurants and bars, some shops and many elderly gentlemen with nets on long poles, pulling garbage out of the water, good for them. I went in search of the legendary John’s Cafe, walked miles, failed, returned to hotel for dinner which was not great and went to bed.

Uo early this morning to go on my tour. I’m not really a tour type person but I can’t figure out a way to persuade a taxi driver to drive me thirty odd miles to see one thing, then another thirty to see something else, so a tour it had to be. Anna, my guide, was very pleasant though a little severe and my driver was the cautious type, all good I suppose. Off we went down the aforementioned expressway and after the thirty miles turned off onto a single lane road and climbed out of the greenery of the oasis into…The Gobi Desert. How about that, I got really rather excited, many pauses  for photos. We followed the base of Flaming Mountain for a while, it’s 75 miles long and part of the Tien Shan Range (wasn’t I just in that Range in Kyrgyzstan?) until we came to the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves. These are set high on the cliffs above a verdant river valley and were occupied by Buddhist monks in the 5th to 14th centuries. A very tranquil and idyllic place and perfect for meditating, I’m sure. The monks decorated their caves with paintings and murals and the cave ceilings feature many, if not hundreds, of images of the Buddha. Unfortunately the Europeans came along in the late Nineteenth Century and removed the murals from the walls, packed them off to Europe where they were subsequently destroyed.

Back down from the desert we headed for a an explanation of the Karez. Fear not, I had never heard this word before either. The ancient inhabitants worked out that they could extend the oasis in which they dwelt by drilling wells into the underground water that they discovered about 30 odd feet beneath them that flowed down from the Tien Shan and Flaming mountains. So they did, they drilled hundreds if not thousands of wells. Then someone suggested, back in 206 BC during the Han Dynasty, that it might be a great idea to join up the wells, thirty feet down and create a kind of underground river, thereby avoiding evaporation and using the natural gradient to assist the water to flow. Turpan flourished becoming a major junction of the Silk Road where caravans could rest, feed their herds and pay taxes. Brilliant! Not only that but the Karez is still in use today, there are 3,100 miles of underground channels irrigating the widespread vineyards and other crops. This in an area with an annual rainfall of .32 of an inch.

On then to the ruined city of Jiaohe which provided protection to the Silk Road caravans. Built on an island where a river splits and then rejoins it is perfectly defensible, it  has no city walls instead relying on the river cliffs which are over one hundred feet high. There is not much left of this city dating from 108 BC as you might imagine. It was finally abandoned in the 13th century after being sacked by Genghis Khan. I spent over two hours there, much to the amusement of Anna, looking around and imagining how it must have been all that time ago for the seven thousand inhabitants. I hope some of the photos are worth looking at, lets see.

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Into the desert.

Grapes growing for a very palatable Gobi Desert Red?

Grapes growing for a very palatable Gobi Desert Red?

Some of the Thousand Buddha Caves.

Some of the Thousand Buddha Caves.

City ruins.

City ruins.

This was a big City.

This was a big City.

More ruins.

More ruins.

Walls. Well, remains of walls.

Walls. Well, remains of walls.

More desert.

More desert.

Leaving Urumqi.

It’s the little things that make this trip exciting. Not only have I managed to obtain a ticket but I have negotiated my way across the City to the train station, passed through two security checks, had my ticket inspected three times and am now in my four seater compartment on train number K596, coach ten, seat number eleven. We leave Urumqi at eleven twenty five and arrive in Turpan at one twenty five, the distance is two hundred kilometers. I am just a little thrilled as we will skirt the Taklamakan desert on our way to one of the Silk Road’s legendary cities. Ancient forts, towering mountains and narrow passes await. I have to say though, it has not all been plane sailing.

      Yesterday I tried negotiating this trip with the hotel staff and after much gesticulating, phone calls and scribbling in Chinese I think the total cost came out at one thousand eight hundred Dollars, this for two nights in a hotel, transfers and a train ride. No, no, I said, this is out of my price range and promptly got a bit depressed. The hotel resembled an armed camp. Two truck loads of armed military were on duty at all times, surrounding the entrance and parking lot. Not only that but there was a twenty member SWAT team, complete with camo’ uniforms on duty within the hotel itself, plus dogs and hulking gentlemen with wires in their ears. I felt inclined to leave ASAP because at that price I could fly to Hong Kong and forget the whole adventure. Despairing somewhat I texted back home and soothing words came back, reminding me that I have contacts here. Yes I do!  I have a friend who has a daughter who has a friend who runs a travel agency in Beijing who has a friend who runs a trans China travel agency. We had exchanged emails back in May and she said to call if I needed help and I did. One call and the price plummeted considerably, tickets and hotels are booked, transfers are organized, tours of ancient ruins are planned, even food is scheduled. In fact it took most of the day on the phone and the computer but here I am, in my seat, pulling out of Urumqi into the desert.  Plan A is on track, as it were (sorry).
     Clearly I was misled about the great firewall, everything seems to be working, so far.
     Sorry this is a little brief but wanted everyone to know that I have moved on from the big city to more rural scenes, it is much better. For the first time on this trip I have a guide tomorrow. I am a little nervous about this as I tend to go my own way but if she can get me to places where I couldn’t get to by myself then so be it.
I’ll let you know how it goes plus some photos!